Chasing the Aurora in the Westfjords: An Icelandic Road Trip
Starting off: my expensive meter for a country is determined by the price of a local beer.
Beer Price Rating: 1,200 ISK (~€8.20) for a local lager – No surprises, steep, but a scenic toast with Kirkjufell in the background makes it feel like money well spent.
If you enjoy this blog and would like to access every single location (+ more) location I have an interactive google map available.
Welcome to Iceland
There are few places left on Earth that still feel untouched – wild, raw, and utterly untamed. Iceland’s Westfjords are one of them. Jagged fjords carve deep into mountainous coastlines, geothermal pools bubble by the roadside, and in winter, the silence is breathtaking. We travelled in the shoulder season of early March (7- 15th). Perfect timing for northern lights but it did come with some challenges, which were very navigable. Quick changes of weather, snow/icey roads, closed roads and shut campsites need to be on your radar and be open to adjusting your schedule! We were very lucky and had a 7 day weather window of blue bird skies and no wind. Magic.
Our journey began in Keflavik Airport, where we were met with a free shuttle to Kuku Campers. After grabbing the keys to our four-wheeled home for the week, we hit the road toward Reykjavik – a breezy 45-minute drive.
Travel Tip: In Iceland, you’re only allowed to stay in designated campsites. Most are seasonal, but a few stay open year-round. Always check ahead. This campsite map from Kuku Campers is your best friend. If a site is closed, as long as the entry is note gated an locked, you can park over night. Please follow the instructions left at the sight as you still may need to pay to stay. In the summer time a camp site pass for all of Iceland can be purchased. This is a flat fee but usually ends up being cheaper than booking sites individually.
Reykjavik – Gear Up and Get Going
We stocked up on essentials (and cinnamon buns) in the capital. Highlights included:
- Sandholt Bakery – World-class sourdough and pastries.
- Brauð & Co – You’ll smell it before you see it. Cinnamon swirl is legendary
- Neo Pizza – Casual local spot and perfect pre or post road trip!
- Bonus Supermarket – Best bang for your buck groceries.
- Fjallakofinn – Outdoor gear paradise – they’ve got you sorted. I picked up Crampons and a head torch.
- Dillon Whiskey Bar and Lebowski Bar – Both very quirky. Lebowski is self explanatory, indulge in white russian. Our experience in the Dillon was like a video game. Every character under the sun.
Our first night, the forecast for the Northern Lights was good so we headed out of the capital. Unfortunately, we didn’t see the lights that night so we camped 45 minutes outside the city at Reykjamörk Hveragerði Campsite. This campsite was fully open and had solid facilities.
The Snæfellsnes Peninsula – Land of Mist and Mountains
From Reykjavik, we hugged the coast northward toward the Snæfellsjökull Peninsula. It is known as “mini Iceland” as it showcases a slice of everything that Iceland has to offer except for glaciers. A visual masterpiece.
- Stopped in Borgarnes for supplies at Bonus super market and a quick nod to The Secret Life of Walter Mitty. The cafe which has a restroom.
- Landbrotalaug Hot Spring – Tiny but tucked in one of the most cinematic spots imaginable. Two people can fit snuggly inside, so you may have to be patient to experience. Well worth the wait, especially if it’s your first Hot-spring of the trip.
- Hjá Góðu Fólki – The seafood soup here is reason enough to reroute your journey. Farm to fork style. Home grown produce in the greenhouses and the owners hand built the structure.
- Grundarfjörður Campsite – A peaceful spot with views of iconic Kirkjufell Mountain. Winter facilities of a heated bathroom and sink.
- Búðakirkja (Black Church) – The most photographed church in Iceland. Minimalist, and striking against the snowy backdrop. It’s a must visit. Be aware that tour buses to arrive so it can be hit or miss when it comes to crowds. I did experience an incredible northern lights experience.
- Optional detour: Svörtuloft Lighthouse – Due to the winter roads it was difficult for me to reach, so I opted to skip it. Would love to go back some day.
The Ferry to the Westfjords – Optional
If you are exploring the Snæfellsnes peninsula, one option to reach the Westfjords is to take the Baldur Ferry from Stykkishólmur to Brjánslækur. The ferry takes roughly the same time as driving (3.5 hours), but gives you a different view entirely – You arrive quite close to the first Hot sping of the trip.
We did not take the Ferry and opted to drive. If you are skipping the Snæfellsnes peninsula, driving from Reykjavik to our first marked spot, Hellulaug Hot Springs is 4:15 hours. Be prepared to continue driving for longer!
Along the route, we stopped in Borgarnes to stock up on grocery supplies and then in Búðardalur to refuel before we entered into the Westfjords – Locations are one and two hours from the capital, respectively.
The Westfjords – Truly free.
The further we went, the quieter it got. Towns turned to villages, and roads narrowed into frost-covered tracks.
- Hellulaug Hot Spring – Just off the roadside, blink and you’ll miss it. The ultimate welcome to the westfjords. Perhaps the most secluded of all of the hotsprings on the trip. You do not want to miss this one.
- Fiskabúrið – Local fish shop with fresh produce and eggs. We didn’t purchase any items, but the quirky, side of the road tuck shop has rave reviews and we were told it is some of the best fish you can buy!
- Patreksfjörður – Feels like the end of the earth.Population of 780 and home to an olympic swimmer. Was a great place to spend the first night. Deep into the Fjords it is a launch pad to access many incredible sights. Camping Ground – No facilities in winter, so be prepared.
- Fossfjörður Waterfall and The A-House – So so high on the bucket list. Could drive as far as the waterfall and then had to park and walk 1km on a closed road to the A-frame. Eerie, abandoned, and so beautiful. 7 billion people in the world and we were the only people there. Sensational.
- Missed stops due to winter road conditions: Rauðisandur Beach, Reykjarfjordur Pool, Tálknafjörður Hot Spring
Flateyri, Ísafjörður & The North
This region felt like time stood still. We opted to get out of the camper van for a night in Flateyri and stayed above The Old Bookstore – we loved it so much, we ended up staying for two nights. This is the oldest store in Iceland.
- Önundarfjörður Pier – A quick dip here will clear the soul.
- Ísafjörður – The “Capital of the Westfjords” – here you will a variety of choice. Choice is a luxury in the westfjords, especially in winter. Cafes, bars, restaurants.
- Bonus eats (seasonal): Jötunn and Tjöruhúsið – only open weekends in winter.
Finishing Strong – The Final Springs
As the journey wound down, we headed east toward:
- Heydalur Hotel – Horseback rides and hot springs wrapped into one. Home to the Galtahryggjarlaug Geothermal Pool. If you are not staying at the property it is 1000 Kronar to enter. Be aware, there are two foot bridges and one is not in operation currently. Summer it shall be there.
- Hörgshlíðarlaug – Our favourite hot spring of the trip. Secluded, steaming, soul-restoring. We spent sunset here and felt at peace.
- Gjörvidalslaug Hot-spring – A unique hot spring experience. It is completely covered over in by a wood cabin. Views = 0, Privacy = 100. One last dip before you leave the westfjords.
We wrapped up our adventure at Hveravík Campsite – Reviewed as one of the best campsites in all of Iceland. A geothermal pool in the front of the property. We watched the northern lights dance over head at midnight. Just 3.5 hours from Reykjavik. The perfect final rest stop before returning to civilisation.
Final Thoughts:
The Westfjords aren’t convenient, you have to be ready to change with the weather but they are always worth it. They’re built for those who crave wonder and can handle a little hardship. If that’s you, start the engine. Iceland will take care of the rest.
If you would like to see the road trip through a vlog – a series of episodes can be found through my Youtube Channel – Aurora in the Westfjords
Interactive map with 100+ pins to ensure you have the ultimate Westfjords road trip!
Thanks very much for reading and happy exploring!
Saltynuts 